Courthouse Steps

tutorial: courthouse steps

The Courthouse Steps block is a variation of a log cabin block. It traditionally has red center squares and a variety of light and dark fabrics that give you a chessboard effect on your finished quilt top (example here). This is the block I’ve chosen for my turn in the Twice Around the Block Bee. This tutorial is mainly a how-to for my bee members but will be useful for anyone else who wants to try this block. I’ve chosen fabrics in four colors (red, green, blue, and white) for a Christmas-y quilt.

To make one block like my sample block, you will need:
5 green strips, measuring 1 1/2″ wide by varying lengths (the longest strip you will need is 12.5″)
5 white strips, measuring 1 1/2″ wide by varying lengths
5 red strips, measuring 1 1/2″ wide by varying lengths
5 blue strips, measuring 1 1/2″ wide by varying lengths
1 pink center square, measuring 2 1/2″ square

*A note about cutting*
This block is very scrap friendly. Scraps will need to be at least 1 1/2″ wide. I used fat quarters for my fabrics and was able to get 12 strips from each. I highly recommend using a Shape Cutter from June Tailor to cut your strips. It is fast and makes the cuts more accurate. (fabric needs for an entire quilt are given at the end of this post)

Piecing the Block

Take your center square and choose two strips in different colors. One strip gets sewn to the top of the block; the other strip gets sewn on the opposite side. I’ve chosen red and white strips in the example below.

Press your seams to one side (I pressed all of mine away from the center square) and trim the excess fabric. You can be a lazy quilter like me and trip the edges carefully scissors at your machine:

or you can trim them with your rotary cutter:

I used both methods for my blocks and they all came out to 12.5″ in the end. Do whichever method works for you. Add your next two color strips on the opposite sides of the block. After a few rows you will have something that looks like this:

Continue to add strips to each side until you have a total of 5 strips in each color. This is what your finished block will look like:

When you put two blocks together, you can see the secondary pattern start to emerge:

courthouse steps pattern

Pretty, huh? The cutting part is tedious, but the piecing is fast and easy and the finished look is definitely worth the time. I hope you all try it! And I hope my bee members enjoy making these.

*For a 96″ x 96″ quilt, you will need to make 64 blocks. Fabric requirements are 22 dark fat quarters, 19 light fat quarters, and 3/8 yard of your center square fabric.

tutorial: scrappy stars

This scrappy 1930s quilt from the book Quilted Planet is the inspiration for my tutorial. I loved the scrappiness of this quilt, and I’ve spent quite a bit of  time searching the internet for a similar block. The closest thing I could find is “Rocky Road to Kansas” which uses strips of fabric instead of scraps (a tutorial for that block can be found here).

tutorial: scrappy stars

This project is perfect for all of those odd-sized scraps that you have laying around. (Your pieces need to be at least 1″x1″ to hold a seam.)

This tutorial is for a 12.5″ (unfinished) block. All seams are 1/4″.

To make a lap-sized quilt of 25 blocks, you will need:

  • Many assorted scraps (this is hard to estimate, but you probably need about 1 quart sized Ziploc of scraps for each 12.5″ block)
  • 3 yards of background fabric
  • Templates (download here)
  • Tools: rotary cutter, iron, ruler, fabric scissors

  1. Piecing the stars. Turn on your iron and get ready to chain piece. Start with two pieces at a time and sew until you have a decent chain of 10 or 15 sets. Trim the threads and press your seams open. Since you’re working with a variety of scraps you will need to do some trimming so that you have straight edges to attach your next scrap. This is where your sharp fabric scissors come in handy.Continue adding to scraps and pressing until you’ve created a piece that covers the template A piece.
  2. Trimming the Stars. Get out that rotary cutter and ruler and go to town. The template pieces include seam allowances so you can use them as a cutting guide. If the parts you trim off are large enough to hold a seam, throw them back in your scrap bin to use for the next block. After all of that piecing, pressing, and trimming, you will need 100 “A” pieces for the quilt.
  3. Cutting the Background Fabric. You are going to be cutting your background fabric from selvage to selvage. Unless you have a giant cutting mat, you’ll probably want to fold it in half.  For each 12.5″ block you will need 1 piece of fabric measuring 4″ wide and 44″ long.  This is how you will lay your B template on the fabric to use as a cutting guide.
    Cut your first piece and then flip the template to cut the next piece (you can also keep your fabric folded in half and cut two at a time.) You will cut 8 pieces from each 4″ wide strip (for a total of 200 “B” pieces).
  4. Putting Together the Block. Here is the fun part! Each block is made of four smaller blocks so you will need four completed A pieces before you’re ready to put a block together. This part is simple but be gentle because you are sewing on the bias. Don’t abuse your fabric! Use scissors to snip your thread ends instead of that handy little cutter at the side of your machine. That kind of force can make delicate bias seams go wonky. Grab two B pieces and one A piece and let’s get started! To make sure your pieces line up perfectly (or as close to it as humanly possible), fold your As and Bs in half and use your hot iron to press the fold.Match up your press marks and pin. Sew along the pinned edge. Press open. Repeat for the other B piece. Now you should have something that looks like this: This is only 1/4 of your block, but it’s still worth a Ta Da! moment. Repeat 3 more times and you have your first scrappy star block!

Questions?

cathedral window pillow – part 2

[for part 1 of this tutorial, click here]
Finishing the Pillow
I finished up the quilting and spent 5 minutes trimming my loose thread ends.  I left some loose threads on the back because it will be inside the pillow, which is a little bit unfortunate because I love how the back looks. This would really be a beautiful quilt (But heavy! Even this 18×18 pillow front is quite substantial.)

Cathedral Window Pillow - Back 

Then I trimmed off the extra fabric.

Trimming the edges 

I debated about adding a border around the quilted section to make the pillow a little bit larger. In the end, I decided to skip it, mostly because it was another step. I chose a khaki twill I had on hand for the backing and sewed in a 12-inch zipper.

Making the pillow 

Whenever I make a pillow, after the backing and front are complete, I run both through the serger. I like my pillows to have tidy edges with no fraying inside of the pillow and serged edges make it easy to sew it all together in the end.

Making the pillow 

Then all I did was sew it all together! Tada!

Arcadia Cathedral Windows

cathedral window pillow – part 1

I started a new pillow for my living room. I ordered some extra Arcadia fabric so I will be able to make a quilt and some other items. This collection is the absolute perfect style and color scheme for our living room.

Making the Pillow
First, I made my cathedral window blocks. Then I sewed 16 blocks together so my finished pillow will be about 18 x 18 (20 x 20 if I decide to add a border around the edge).

Cathedral Window Pillow

Next, I cut my “windows.” I used 2 1/2-inch squares of Arcadia fabric. I had a jelly roll so it made cutting quick and easy.

Arcadia Jelly Roll 

Now it’s time for fabric placement. I played with a few different arrangements to make sure the colors were evenly placed and then I pinned the squares in place.

Cathedral Window Pillow 

I sewed about a fourth of the windows last night. (I stayed up way too late because I was so enthralled with how they were coming out.) I will definitely get this pillow finished tonight!

Cathedral Window Pillow 

Cathedral Window Pillow

[for part 2 of this tutorial, click here]